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Luke,

The size of the markings on Lugers are specified in the 1910 Marking Instructins (as amended through 1914). These are translated in Görtz & Bryans "German Small Arms Markings." I refer to the book regularly, and highly recommend it.

The Instructions specify that the barrel, receiver, breechblock, front and rear toggle links, trigger, sideplate, and grips are marked with numbers 2.1mm high.

The extractor, firing pin, hold-open, trigger lever, safety bar, and safety lever are marked with numbers 1.5mm high.

The accompanying illustration shows that the trigger lever actually is not serial numbered, but the sear bar and locking bolt are; the illustration implies that the sizes are to be 1.5mm.

--Dwight
 

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Luke,

The size of the markings on Lugers are specified in the 1910 Marking Instructins (as amended through 1914). These are translated in Görtz & Bryans "German Small Arms Markings." I refer to the book regularly, and highly recommend it.

The Instructions specify that the barrel, receiver, breechblock, front and rear toggle links, trigger, sideplate, and grips are marked with numbers 2.1mm high.

The extractor, firing pin, hold-open, trigger lever, safety bar, and safety lever are marked with numbers 1.5mm high.

The accompanying illustration shows that the trigger lever actually is not serial numbered, but the sear bar and locking bolt are; the illustration implies that the sizes are to be 1.5mm.

--Dwight
 

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According to local information (here in Germany), the new repro Navy rear sights are prone to damage during only a short period of use. Several dealers stock them but as annealing has not proved successful, their only use would seem to be as emebellishments on recent Russian import Lugers for the more gullible sector of the U.S. collectors´ market.

Patrick
 

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According to local information (here in Germany), the new repro Navy rear sights are prone to damage during only a short period of use. Several dealers stock them but as annealing has not proved successful, their only use would seem to be as emebellishments on recent Russian import Lugers for the more gullible sector of the U.S. collectors´ market.

Patrick
 

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Dwight -

Thanks for pointing out the reference material on Luger parts numbering sizes.
As it turns out, I have the book and found the reference to which you refer. I was intrigued by the fact that the locking lever is not contained in the list of small parts on page 111, although it is illustrated on page 112. It seems that either Gortz & Bryans made a mistake or DWM's practice strayed from these instructions. At any rate, my observations are that the locking lever is usually marked on 1908 commercial and Navy Lugers </u>on the bottom of the part and is of the 2.1mm type, not the 1.5mm type.

Luke
 

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Dwight -

Thanks for pointing out the reference material on Luger parts numbering sizes.
As it turns out, I have the book and found the reference to which you refer. I was intrigued by the fact that the locking lever is not contained in the list of small parts on page 111, although it is illustrated on page 112. It seems that either Gortz & Bryans made a mistake or DWM's practice strayed from these instructions. At any rate, my observations are that the locking lever is usually marked on 1908 commercial and Navy Lugers </u>on the bottom of the part and is of the 2.1mm type, not the 1.5mm type.

Luke
 

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Here are some more photos of my DWM 1917 s/n 6038. Note the wide flange toggle pin. The pistol looks correct to me...the only question I have is has it been re-blued???

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Harry:

FWIW: My opinion, based on the photos, is that your Navy is a good one.

Am inclined to agree that the finish on the toggle pin doesn't look correct. It has been my experience that the finish should fire blue, i.e., similiar to that found on the breech block pin or the sear bar spring.
 

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7.28KBI have a 1917 Naval that I got out of the bush. I would like to post some photos of it and see what you think. I tore it down and it matches up to the "good" criteria 100%. The only weird thing about it, and I would like thoughts, is the 33 number on the side plate is stamped over a small 27 #. Is it a factory boo boo or what? The side plate matches up perfectly with color, etc. of the rest of the gun. What do you think? Thanks.
Dave

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Hope this is ok to post so many pictures.If not, please let me know. Thanks.
Dave

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Dave:

Nice looking 1917. There is no doubt that the side plate has been renumbered. In my opinion, the renumbering was not done at the factory. Who know when or where. Obviously, the person who did it was not attempting to conceal the fact from anyone.
 
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