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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just started reading this forum, have learnt a great deal already. I have a small collection and have attached pics of two P08s.

The first is a 1936, S/42. It has all matching parts, except for the mag. It has the original finish with "straw" on the appropriate parts (although it is worn away and darkened on the top surfaces).

The second is a 1939, 42. It is also all matching except for mag and has original finish (no straw parts but I think that is correct).

Not the prettiest examples, but good honest originals that have not been messed with.



Download Attachment: p08.JPG
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Download Attachment: p082.JPG
79.86KB
 

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Jim, That ain't a bad start. The 1936 is a fairly desirable piece to have. They stopped rust bluing and strawing in early to mid 1937. So you would be correct about your 1939. You are on the verge of a terrible affliction. Welcome to the looney bin!
What is the ser# and letter suffix, of your 1936?

Ron
 

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A really nice gun is always wanted, but I actually prefer good honest examples! They have a history, were carried by troops and spent time in the field.

Ed
 

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I couldn't agree more.
My P-38 was made in 1943, sent the Eastern Front, captured there, cleaned and stored, then came here to the states. My K98k was made in 1907 (DWM), shortened to 24" after WWI, and was captured in fighting on the Eastern Front during WWII.
I own an Army Colt 1911 made in 1917. It has only about 60% of the orig. finish. It's original, tight, and shoots straight, as does my 1918 Erfurt P-08 which is about 90%.
The history behind these pieces is one of the reasons I enjoy collecting military-issue sidearms. The other is the ready availability and low cost of ammo. for most of them.
JT
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What is the ser# and letter suffix, of your 1936?

Ron

Don't have it in front of me but I believe it is 3850k.

Any significance?
 
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