Jan C. Still Lugerforums banner
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the opportunity to buy this P08. It is all matching including the mag. but the condition is poor. There is no blue left on the side latch and the rest of the gun is pitted. I don't know much about these guns and would appreciate a ball park price range to negotiate from.

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Thank you
 

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I would venture that a "poor" condition luger is in the $400-$500 range? Much more and look for another gun, cheaper is better on a poor condition gun.

Ed
 

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Reich 1900

The luger in question is a very good representation of a old well used luger in that it has not been tampered with, ie reblued. We all prefer to have the nice ones however their is many thousands in the condition of the one you are looking at.Some of the ones that I have are all shot out and pitted, loose actions,scratches and dents but still represent what the firearm went through in battle and like Ed stated if you get them for a reasonable price is in my opinion still a good way to start a collection.
 

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lugerlou knows it right! Meaning that a nice but used/abused piece is better than nothing, provided the cost is reasonable.

Ed
 

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More than 35 years ago I bought a 1916 DWM Luger from a Tacoma, Washington, pawn shop for $55 that was much rougher than the Erfurt you have. Someone had replaced the grips with the ugliest Franzite pearl-white plastic pieces I've ever seen and there was pitting all over. But what a shooter that pistol was! I shot many hundreds of Lyman truncated cone cast bullets through it and I don't think it ever jammed on me. It's one I regret having sold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I took everyones advice and bought it. When I got it home I took it totally appart and cleaned it. Every part number matchs including the grips and mag. The bore is mint and there doesn't seem to be any loss of blue due to holster wear. It is not pitted but more like stains from laying in a damp basement for years. The only real bad part is the side latch which had no blue as the picture shows so I cold blued it and now looks more like the rest of the gun. Is the any reason anyone can think of as to why the side plate is so different from the rest of the gun? (# matchs gun) Are they all like this or am I lucky to have a uniquely screwed up one.
I will take some pictures and post them later for your comments.
Bernie
 

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Bernd
On its left side, a Luger rests partly on its sideplate. If it is left on a damp surface, the sideplate may show more blue loss than the rest of the gun. Such an all matching Luger is scarce and your gun has a mint bore which is rare on a Imperial Luger.
Jan
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Jan, thank you so much for the information. Do you think that I hurt the value any by using cold blue on the side latch I just didn't want it to become worse. If you don't mind me asking what is a ball park value of this luger. What ever, I'm going to keep it and try and find a holster and tool for it.
 

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Bernd,

In addition to the storage circumstance which Jan Still covered, a Luger's sideplate is made from a different grade of steel than most of the rest of the gun. I'm told it is a little softer, and 'takes' rust blue easier than the rest of the gun. This means that it is more susceptible to deterioration as well.

--Dwight
 

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Most likely we all have slightly different ideas about what 'poor condition" or "excellent condition" on a particular piece is. Also, photographs do not replace an in person inspection. From what I can see of your photograpghs
the pitting you mention does not appear that bad and a matching magazine is definately a plus. From my limited ability to assess your piece from the photographs only I would say it is more like an "NRA GOOD" to "NRA VERY GOOD" and definitely not an "NRA POOR" condition. Ed's estimation of value above seems reasonable based on your verbal description. Unless it is uglier in person than it appears in the photographs I would guess a value more like $500 to $600 would be more "in the ballpark"
Rich
 

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Bernd,
* Mystery how the side plate had all its rust blue removed. Maybe the previous owner tried to use Naval Jelly to remove the pitted side plate's rust and got all the original rust blue finish off as well. Oh well!!

quote: Do you think that I hurt the value any by using cold blue on the side latch?
* I see where your main question has been left unanswered. Suspect this is because there is no "right" answer. At the risk of starting a firestorm, let me crawl out on a limb and hazard a shot at some considerations.
* Cold blue has a distinct smell which will cast a suspicious aura over the entire pistol's finish and originality. To a hard line collector, this will devalue the pistol significantly. Some will say it relegates this pistol to a "shooter" valued @ 50% of a collector's price. Pretty harsh for this example; but, reality.
* Your pistol's condition presents a dilemma. It can not be restored to original condition. Yet, in spite of the freckling/corrosion spots, the pistol is not in as poor of a condition as initially described. It is a piece of history. Even with the damaged finished(finish loss) on the sideplate, this pistol will command more collector's value in its un-cold blue state than with a "prettier" cold blue sideplate enhancement. I agree with Rich & lugerlou's assessments.
* That being said, it is difficult to accept a white sideplate on an otherwise fairly nice historical example. One alternative would be to ship the pistol to a professional restoration artist, like Thor. The aim would be to have him remove the sideplate's cold blue and re-rust blue the sideplate's finish to match the existing rust blue of the pistol(warts & all). The dilemma is the pistol will now look prettier; but, be partially re-finished. A re-finished pistol may suffer in devaluation as dramatically as a cold blued one.
* Assuming Thor's "re-work", the ethical course, when & if you elect to sell this piece, would be to fully disclose the sideplate's refinish. A price adjustment down from the equivalent collector's value should be expected.
* However, IMHO, this downward adjustment should not be as severe as a 50% shooter's devaluation. The discount would be from a value of an all original blue example and may almost equate to what the price of this piece with an all white sideplate, original finish might bring. Depends on the Buyer/Seller at that pivotal moment of agreement. There is Thor's cost to add to the original investment cost having to be balanced by the sale price.
* In fairness to generations to follow, Thor will place his unique "signature" mark on the area of re-finish with the agreement of the owner. In this case the inside of the sideplate would be a likely location.
* This is your pistol; hence, your decision. Unfortunately, I can't hazard a guess on what the final numbers would be. Possibly other with experience in the re-sale of re-finished pieces can comment on what their realized actuals were as a guide. Also, this degree of devaluation is only one major factor of the decision of what to do.
* Trust this provides some illumination for your question. It is but only one of many opionions I'm sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just want to thank everyone for your replys and to RockinWR for all the information. I have not shot this gun yet but plan to when the weather permits.
I have another one, a byf42, that I shoot and as far as I'm concerned P08 guns are the nicest handguns to shoot.
Now all I have to do is find a nice WW1 holster for it.
 
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