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Help with a Model 1883

6K views 28 replies 9 participants last post by  Heinrich 
#1 ·
A friend acquired this revolver from her father upon his passing and she asked for my help in valuing it, as she has no interest in keeping it. This is way out of my wheelhouse and I can’t find much info about these. All numbers match, down to the screws. Bluing looks to have mostly turned to a gray patina.

Any thoughts on a ballpark value and where (Gunbroker, forums, etc.) these tend to sell best? Thanks!
 

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#2 ·
I should add that there does appear to be some damage to the cylinder. See attached. From what I've gathered, it seems that these are pretty uncommon in the U.S. and that many are not functional, so finding comps is difficult. Any insight for my friend would be greatly appreciated.

 
#3 ·
Andy, If you can determine a price that makes you/her happy then this Forum is the best place to sell IMO for a couple of reasons. Interest is concentrated. No % fee charged.
 
#4 ·
Thanks. I need to do some work with it - take it apart to check internal numbers, make sure it functions, check the bore, etc. I have no idea what these are worth, as there aren't many comps. I've seen a few sold at Legacy in the $975 range and a few sold on Gunbroker, but those all looked nicer (blueing) than hers. A friend told me that he could imagine it selling for $1,000 if everything is in order.
 
#5 ·
It will be tough to find recent comp sales on Gunbroker. But places like the sold items at Legacy would offer some general assistance. Tom had one which sold in May of 2018 with a list price of $1,395. It was far nicer finish, at his estimate of 92%.

https://www.legacy-collectibles.com/german-reichsrevolver-m1883-erfurt-rig-030618.html

Knowing that three most important factors for value of a matching milsurp are condition, condition, condition, you might price your friend's lower conditioned gun accordingly. It might sell at $1,000, but it could take a long time to find a buyer. It would sell much quicker at a lower price.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the information and help. I saw the two at Legacy and the few that have sold on Gunbroker. A collector who follows these warned me not to open up the revolver or remove the grips, and certainly not without the right tools, as there's a decent chance that the grips will crack or a spring might break, etc. His advice is that people who are interested in these revolvers don't care too much about the internals - they care more about a revolver that doesn't have buggered up screws and missing parts. He said that most of the ones he sees are wall hangers and in worse condition than my friends. He might be a bit aggressive on the $1,000 price tag.
 
#10 ·
Is the pistol marked with mfg info? It resembles my 1883 Reichsrevolver, 10.55mm (shortened .44 Russian). Here is a picture of my Reichsrevolver. I bought it a year ago for $1K... Notice the mfg logo on the left side just above the trigger guard.
It's marked Erfurt / 1883 above the trigger guard and has Prussian proofs.

 
#14 ·
My friend dropped off the revolver. The finish is actually a lot better than was shown in the phots that she sent me. Every screw and every other externally-numbered part is matching. I don’t know how to rate the bore on these because I don’t know what’s typical, but it is pretty shiny and strong except for a ring of pitting about 1/3 of the way down on the top side of the bore. I’m going to clean off the grease, take pics and then likely put it on Gunbroker.

 
#18 ·
Happy New Year to all. My friend dropped off the revolver and I’ve cleaned it of dirt and grease and taken about 25 pictures. It’s in a lot better shape than her pictures showed. Can anyone tell me what the unit marking means? 1 M II 6 R 162 (6th regiment, Company 162?). Thanks.
 
#22 ·
thanks for the help. The interpretation that I posted in my prior post was from a friend who sent me this:

“From: Vorschrift über das Stemplen der Handwaffen.
Vom 28. Januar 1909.

1909 German military manual on hand weapons stamping, page 22

6.R.162. by itself would be 6[SUP]th[/SUP] Reserve Infantry Regiment (Staff), but preceded by Light Munitions Column would be Field Artillery.”
 
#25 ·
Yes, I wouldn't hesitate to shoot it either. Not many people shoot these old warhorses but I shoot mine. They are relatively mild shooters and even though I have an excellent bore it tends to throw bullets downrange like a kid throws snowballs. Of the half dozen examples I have shot none were real target pistols! As an example of what the German Army used before the Luger became available they are priceless.
 
#26 ·
Rating a bore has nothing to do with the age, just the condition inside the bore. JMHO.

I think you described it very well, I expect the corrosion will be reduced with some oil, brush, and "elbow grease". ;)
 
#27 ·
abulg1972,
First let me explain something about the instructions of that time.
The first issue of the marking instruction after introduction of the M/83 revolver was in 1890.
Then came changes:
1892, 1897, 1900, 1901, 1903, 1904, 1905, 1906, 1907 and 1909. Only for Prussia !
The all the changes were handwritten !! Also the issue of 1909 of your friend. I had the opportunity to get copies of
them. Also those of Bavaria and Württemberg.
Coming back to the interpretation of your friend. I agree with him. The sample in the mentioned his 1909 issue fits perfect !
 
#28 ·
Great, thank you!

Maybe you or someone who has a lot of experience can help me with an issue I'm having.

After pulling and reinserting the cylinder several times over the last few days, I noticed that t
he action is finicky.
There are times when the cylinder will not advance when the hammer is pulled back, and there are times after removing and reinserting the cylinder when the cylinder will run like a clock. There does not seem to be any rhyme or reason to this. I have not opened the revolver up, but all of the parts and mechanisms that rotate the cylinder, like the cylinder "lifter/rotator" (for lack of a better term) that is linked to the hammer, look good and seem to function. The "teeth" on the cylinder look good and are not worn or chipped. If I cock the hammer just a bit so that it's firing pin is backed out of the action, the lock drops down and the cylinder will spin freely. If I fully cock the hammer, the cylinder will tightly lock into place. Maybe it's just that I'm totally ignorant about these revolvers and there is a particular way that I need to reinsert the cylinder? Or, is it likely that there is a broken or loose spring inside the action that is keeping the "lifter/rotator" from fully engaging the cylinder's teeth?

Any thoughts? Thanks!

Andy
 
#29 ·
I recommend to screw off the grip plates, then the 3 screws of the side plate.
Lift up the side plate and move the hammer.
The hand should turn to the left, powered by a spring visible in the hammer. If you pull back the hammer the hand turns the cylinder.
In the end position the small lever under the cylinder keeps the cylinder in firing position.
Then pull the trigger and let the hammer turn slowly braked by your thump.
Please watch whether the hand and the small lever under the cylinder are working well.

There is no special way to insert the cylinder. It is possible in the safety and cocked positions. But not in the knocked down position.

Good luck
 
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