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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ran into a 1913 DWM luger 9mm today at the local gun shop. There asking $950. I was just wondering if the price is right or not? Also any other information on this luger would be great. :) Should the inside of the grips have the serial # on them?

I could not take the luger apart to inspect the inner parts. On the outside it appeared to be all matching less the mag. Luger Serial# 72xx a. The last 2 numbers where on many places on the outside. Many cool looking proof marks especially under the barrel. Bluing was about 90% with the bore being just a little worn but with good lands and groves and no frosting or pitting. The mag appears to be either aluminum or stainless with a wooden bottom. The bottom of the mag has a four digit serial# that was very hard to make out but it did not appear to be matching. I think the bottom of the mag was also marked with a + sign\mark. Brown checkered grips in very nice shape.

Thanks Jr
 

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Al, everything depends on if it is all matching? If all matching, at 90%, I think the price is a bit high?

If you decide that the price is ok to you, insist they take it apart, you must know what parts should be with the last two of the serial number, off the top of my head I am unsure, I "believe' breechblock, firing pin, extractor, sideplate, takedown lever, rear toggle, trigger, which ones did I forget guys?

One of the most valuable tools is to buy books first and study them.

Welcome to the forum btw, Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Ed, Thanks for the reply. :) I had a few opportunities to purchase a decent luger many time but pass on them. :( The prices seem to level off at around $750, although I could have had 2 of them at $500. I take it this one is by no means a rare dated\code luger that easily justifies a $950 price?

Perhaps I can get another fellow behind the counter that will let me take her apart. It is such a nice looking one for sure.


Jr. :)
 

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Well, 1913 is not a common year, so maybe I mispoke, was going more by condition...

Does it have a stock lug? They switched over in 1913, so some do, some do not... If not, then I would be tempted to get her, offer them $800 or $850, see what they say. I don't want to irritate them, so I say, hey, I really like this gun, but don't want to irritate you... Works fairly well if I low-ball them... they will usually say, go ahead ask, we can always say no (but then they are prepared for a lower price)...

Ed
 

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Quote: "Many cool looking proof marks especially under the barrel." Please explain the "cool looking proof marks" which you found under the barrel. The only markings underneath the barrel on a 1913DWM should be the serial number, including German script suffix, and the barrel diameter, 8,85, for example.

Don't forget to look at the holdopen, an internal part, for the last two digits of the serial number. Yes, the grips should be numbered on the inside, again the last two of the SN.

These two parts are "externally" marked on the 1913 DWM, but don't forget the middle toggle link and the safety lever.

By the way, I would think that a 1913 WITH a stock lug is more valuable than one WITHOUT a stock lug. The order to add stock lugs was issued late in 1913, October I think, and most of that year's production run did not include the lug.

IF the gun is all matching and IF it has not been reblued, then $950 is a pretty good price. Just my opinion.

Good luck with your decision.

Luke
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Guys, I went back today and spoke with another fellow at the counter whom let me take some quick pictures. However not one of the employees felt comfortable enough to take her apart. Personally I never have taken a luger apart so I did not even go there. Again the numbers on the mag is hard to make out but it does not appear to match. Both grips match with the last 2 serial numbers.

Let me know what ya think. :) A pic of under the barrel markings below.

I'll just post 2 pics here with the rest on this site,,, http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=7368074&uid=3580531&members=1
Jr. :)



 

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Al,

$ 950 seems like a very good price and from your photos, it appears to be all original finish.

My local gun shop usually will not dicker on price but will always include the sales tax if I ask them to do so...8.5% is a decent price break...

The Simpson shop has another 1913 for sale, a bit nicer than yours for nearly $ 1900...

http://www.simpsonltd.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_7&products_id=576
 

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i am hesitant recently to compare apples and oranges using Simpsons, their prices have gone out of the roof.... I couldn't sell my lugers for 2/3rds of what they are asking...

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just spoke with the guy that handles the gun sales at the shop and he does not want to go lower then the price of $950. He's so tight that he will not even eliminate the sales tax. I told him I would still think about it and left. Turns me off when one does not budge.

He said he had the pistol for 5 days in his shop and feels it will move so enough. He also said he may list it on GB for $1150.

For me this means a total of a grand for the luger. I dunno. :(



Jr. :)
 

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Based on what we see in the pictures, I would definitely go for it. If you don't want it, send me the dealer's name and number. :)

The markings above the serial number on the barrel indicate that the barrel is a "Bohler Steel" barrel. Do a search on "Bohler" on the two Luger forums for more information.

Good luck.

Luke
 

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A small story; I was at a yard sale about 15 years ago, there are a pile of nice post-WW2 but just after the war, Japanese dishes. He wanted $1 a piece, I offered 50 cents, he wouldn't budge.... That was dumb, I got my back up because he wouldn't come down, and I knew they were worth 5x the $1 each....

So, point is, I have gotten better about sometimes swallowing my "pride" or whatever you want to call it and just go for it.

Ed
 

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JR,
there are a lot more parts with the last two digits on them that you haven´t yet seen. Some of them (firing pin) are quite easily broken and may have been replaced. I´m not a collector and couldn´t care less about my Lugers being "fully numbered" but the price would only seem to be justified if it is (taking into consideration that Luger prices are generally lower in USA than in Europe).
 

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JR -

If you really want a Luger I would encourage you to buy it with the provision that you have 3 days to inspect it, in which time you can resolve all of the open questions. If it turns out that some of the internal parts are mismatched or broken, you then can get your money back.

All joking aside: I would like a shot at that Luger if you decline. [email protected]

Best of luck with your decision process.

Luke
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm so glad I met you all here with my quest for a luger pistol. You all have been very helpful. :)

With that said, I have the 1913 DWM luger in front of me & I do have a big smile on my face. However I'm in need of some quick info on how to take her apart. I am familiar with the P38's if the take down is anything like that.

"So, point is, I have gotten better about sometimes swallowing my "pride" or whatever you want to call it and just go for it."

Weimar_Police, whatever it's called I just swallowed it,,,hehehehe

It was hard not to pass her up after reading "Luke" and everyone else's comments lol.

I sure hope the parts on the inside including the firing pin match. Oh please, Oh please match LOL.

I'm going to take more pics now.


Thanks to all and a Great forum.


Jr. :)
 

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Al,

Try this take-down guide...to start with :

http://www.marstar.ca/AssemblyLugerPistol.htm

When sliding the receiver/barrel off the frame, I hold the entire gun upside down. This helps the funny s-link fall out of the way when you slide the receiver off the frame. Same when I re-assemble the luger...hold it up-side-down.

Smart buying decision...especially if you find all small parts match !
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, I got as far as that link shows. Thanks Pete. I see the benefit of holding her upside when putting her back together again.

I also see some markings so far but not any serial number markings. Does that Marstar show how to go futher with the take down?


Jr. :)
 
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