Jan C. Still Lugerforums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
G

·
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's a new one on me. Maybe someone has seen this before and if something needs repaired they can tell me what.

I recently purchased a 95%+ hi gloss blue finish AC 40 that is near new in all respects except the safety does not drop the hammer (like all of my other P38's) When the safety is engaged it disables the hammer, locks the slide, etc. It will also lock the hammer in the cocked position just like a GI 45.
The gun is so minty in condition I just can't see where something is broken. The safety works....it just doesn't drop the hammer.
Any help or info would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
569 Posts
That is a common problem. It is usually caused by wear to either the safety and/or the drop lever.

My suggestion is to just ignore the problem! changing parts sometimes helps but, often, it just gets worse.

If you insist on trying to fix it...contact Tom Heller as he might have the parts you need.

Orv

Orvel L. Reichert
P O Box 67
Vader WA 98593
360-245-3492 tel
360-245-3702 fax
360-520-6520 cel
[email protected]
 

·
Silver Bullet Member
Joined
·
1,688 Posts
James,
Orv is right, but I have found this problem seversl times and both times I changed the sear and it was corrected. It appears that if the sear wasn't hardened enough,it wears a tiny notch in the mating surfaces which stops the hammer from releasing when the safety lever is pushed down. It happened to me on a "mint" AC 45.


Dave
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks to both of you for the info.I did the normal takedown of the pistol and can see no visible wear on anything at all.It still has me totally baffled as to why the thing will not operate.The possibility of a "soft"sear didn't even enter my mind.
Did the "mint" 1945 pistol still have an operational safety (as mine)without dropping the hammer?
I may just leave the thing as is since the condition is so high and it may require fitting of parts,etc.

Thanks
 

·
Silver Bullet Member
Joined
·
1,688 Posts
Yes, the safety worked and the dropping lever would work sometimes, but you would have to push very hard!! It ended up that there was a tiny nick/wear spot on the original sear. We changed the sear and it worked perfectly. I'm not telling you to do this since a WWII sear in mint condition is impossible to find, but it worked for me. I bit the bullet and used a modern brand new sear. Most people couldn't tell the difference. WWII is grey....new commercial are blued!!

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
569 Posts
With the pistol cocked, try pulling back slightly on the hammer while turning the safety to safe..if the hammer drops OK at that time, then it is a problem with the sear/trip adjustment.

Most I have seen were the earlier guns and I would still not bother to fix it.

I NEVER trust that safety on these pistols as I have seen them with broken parts that fire [or even go full-auto] when the lever is used to lower the hammer!

Be careful...that gun is 65 years old!

Orv

Orvel L. Reichert
P O Box 67
Vader WA 98593
360-245-3492 tel
360-245-3702 fax
360-520-6520 cel
[email protected]

Quote....."If there is a possibility of several things going wrong, the one that will cause the most damage will be the one to go wrong."---Murphy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,480 Posts
Dave,

The open sear I am referring to was only used, on a limited basis, in AC40 and AC41 production. It has been my experience that these sears are a little harder to get working correctly. I needed to change out the hammer on one pistol to get the safety lever to work right and trying to find an proper e/359 marked hammer wasn't easy!

Here is a picture of the open sear from one of my older photos.

Why Walther used these sears is a mystery to me, the grip needed to be machined out for it to fit right!

Mark

Download Attachment: Open Sear.jpg
86.96 KB
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You say the safety, when engaged, locks the slide? It should not, as one of the features of the gun is the ability to load the chamber with the safety on.

That aside, it is possible to remove the hammer drop lever entirely from the pistol, and still have it function, except that the hammer stays cocked when the safety is engaged. This is sometimes done by owners of P.38s --and also of PP-series Walthers-- who don't like the hammer drop feature. Are you sure the lever is present? Three "levers" should be visible: the hammer drop lever, the firing pin block lifter, and the ejector. If the hammer drop lever is there, then the lever interface (or timing) with the safety is not correct. This was achieved in factory production by selective fitting of different sizes of levers.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top