[Guest]

Dear all,
I have shooting al lot of different lugers in my now 20 years that I've been around in the shootingsport.
I cannot say anything about the US ammo. But here in Europe the S&B ammo is for WW2 luger the best you can used.About WW 1 Luger that's different.
I had own a 1910 relaod 4 grain of lovex powder bullit 124 grain
1914 reload 4,6 grain of accurate NR 2 Bullit 124 Grain
1915 relaod 3,6 grain of accurate Nr 2 Bullit 124 Grain
BYF 42 reload 3,6 grain of accurate Nr 2 Bullit 124 Grain.

You see always accurate nr 2 the best powder you can use (in my upinion.
Why not use machingun ammo, to strong loaded
If the gun rep. properly and at 25 meters hit the bullseye why use stronger ammo?
WHat happens during 20 years and using originale ammo:
- Broken trogle 1x
- Broken extractor 3 times
- Broken "riegel" yes you reading good it was broken during using strong ammo averytimes the gun was closing top of the luger hidding so hard on the riegel The handel was broken.
- the chamber within the pin how lock the firering pin was broken
out buy a new chamber.
If you can get parts of a luger it's no problem BUT IF YOU HAVE A LUGER WITH MATCHING NUMBERS tray to find again the broken part with the same number GOOD LUCK.

Now, the best I can advice is use reload ammo make it so that the gun is shooting well.And you will have a lot of fun.
Other thing you can do put in new haevy feders or put in used feders
I mean the feder in the grip.

Everyone must do what he things is the best.
I have bad experi. with ammo out of the factory.AND WW2 AMMO steel bullits and powder if you forgot to clean after 1 week there was growing grass in the barrel

Do your deal with my story
As DJ , Gerben and Patrick, I also interested in a meeting with other luger "lovers"
maybe we will meet sometime
With kind regards
Harrie

 

[Vlim]

Hi Harry,

I find that 124Gr S&B Functions flawlessly in my 1937 S/42 with Mec/Gar magazine.
My 1913 Dutch doesn't mind the 124Gr but functions more reliable with 115Gr. As I have stated before, wear and tear of small parts is not unusual. I see 'modern' guns that have a lot more small parts failures than the 'old' P08.

S&B Burns beautifully, btw, and causes only minimal fouling of the internal parts. GeCo, for example, makes a Luger look like it was on fire. WW2 ammo is corrosive and I advise against using it (or clean your barrel immediately after shooting). Plus, the collector's value of original ammo is higher than it's shooting value at the moment.

My VoPo Frankenluger has now reached a stage where it will fire nothing with much reliability. Will put in a new mainspring soon

 

[Ron Smith]

Hi Harrie & Gerben,
I agree, S&B in my opinion is the best I have found. Remington, Winchester and PMC functions well for the most part, but I have experienced several stovepipes and failures to cycle in some pistols. S&B seems to be just about right in all my pistols.

Ron

 

[Guest]

Harry,

I took my mis-matched 1940 shooter Luger to the range yesterday. I put 50 rounds of Winchester 115 gn bullet factory, 50 rounds of Reminton (UMC) 115 gn bullet factory, and about 150 of my reloads thru it..... The roloads were 124 gn copper jacketed bullets using good old inexpensive Winchester 231 powder, 4.5 gn, (range for 124 gn jacketed is 4.1 gn to 4.5 gn of 231). In 250 rounds total, I did not receive one jam, misfire, or toggle failing to stay open on last round with either my reloads or the factory stuff. I used an after market plastic bottom replacement magazine. Accuracy was very good for all types from 15 yds, hitting a 6" steel plate almost every time; at 25 yds, accuracy was not quite as good, but about the same for each type (the 25 yard inaccuracy was probably due mostly to my 54 yr old, bi focaled eyes). I would definately recommend the Win. 231 for reloading for the Luger, clean up was no too bad either.... Mark Nyhuis