Shooting my M2

Jim, I don't think shooting it will clear the frosting up? But I don't really know for sure?

As to shooting it, you never know, 500 rounds might not hurt it, but 1 or 2 might if a part is weak?

I have heard of ways to clear "frosting" up, using a slight abrasive and a drill! Sounds pretty rough to me? Usually just a real good cleaning will make it shiny?

Ed

Ed: Your advice is well-taken. I can live with the frosting..it's not much. I'm certainly hesitant about using a drill and cleaning compound...that gives me cold chills. Jim

Jim, a product I've used on target rifles and new sporting rifles is "J-B Bore Brite". Brownell's carries it. I've never used it on a Luger but it's as close to hand lapping as you can get without actually doing a hand lapping. You use a worn or slightly undersize bronze bristle brush wrapped with a cleaning patch that's then coated with the Bore Brite. A tight fit is necessary and they recommend between 40 & 60 strokes..... from the breech end to the muzzle and back. Do not allow the brush/patch to exit the muzzle. It smoothes the bore and leaves it looking as bright as a new dime. I've had excellent luck with it and so have others I know who have used it. Just a suggestion and it'll be easier on the pistol than shooting it.

Doubs: Is this preparation a paste or solution? Is it safe on the blueing? Jim

Jim, it's in paste form and is an extremely mild abrassive. It will only hurt bluing if rubbed excessively in the same place. That should not be a problem for the chamber or bore as neither are blued. A more informative description can be found on Brownell's web site. Here's a link to the page containing three J-B products. Click on the Bore-Bright for a full description. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/home/default.aspx

I also use J-B Bore Paste (the bottom item) and I swear by both products...... they're as good as it gets, IMO. Not as easy to use as some other products but extremely effective.

Not to digress,but is there ANY sounce of NEW .30 luger ammo or cases other than Berdan primed Finnish stuff from Samco ? Unable to find ANY source of new .30 luger cases. Alternately, anyone cracked code on deprimming Berdan cases? To Moderator: these will not be used in any pre-1920 or rare pieces. Henry

Henry, why don't you start a new thread (New Topic), that way you can choose to have e-mails sent to you, notifying you of an answer to the question?

Just a suggestion, and hey, as a moderator, I don't care if you shoot a rare or pre-1920 gun, cuz then the remaining become more valuable! ~~ grinning~~ Actually, I think many of the WW2 era average Lugers are worth more than the average pre-1920 i.e. WW1 luger?

You do see 7.65mm / .30 Luger brass for sale on e-bay and some other places every now and then?

Ed

Jim,

You didn't ask, but I recommend that you not fire your M2. It is not worth the potential to devalue your Luger by parts breakage. The same goes for the slight 'frosting' of the bore, it is the authentic condition of the gun and I recommend you don't mess wit it.

--Dwight

Henry,

Fiocci manufactures .30 Luger ammunition, it is fairly expensive and too under-powered to properly operate a Luger action. Winchester still manufactures .30 Luger, but it is not commonly found--I've never seen it in a gun shop, but a gun-show acquaintance snags it whenever a case shows up at the Portland gun show. Custom reloaders sell .30 Luger reloads at gun shows in my area, check around gun shows near you and see if you can score some the same way.

--Dwight