[john l lockwood]

i recently bought a 1920 commercial luger that i'm told is a 1929 "sneak issue". what markings should i be looking for to verify this, and what were "sneak issue" guns? --john--

 

[Ron Smith]

John,

It should have a blank chamber and either DWM or blank toggle. S,T,or U suffixed ser#. WaA66 proof on right side of receiver sometimes also military proofs. Serial numbers either hidden in commercial or stamped in military style and possibly both. Crown N on left side of the receiver and on the bottom of the barrel.These are the primary things to look for.

Ron

Here is a link to my "Sneak" post.http://www.gunboards.com/luger/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4460

 

[donmaus]

I promise to stay out of this one!

 

[john l lockwood]

good grief, there certanly was a lot of info in that link ! i do believe that my question has been answered aplenty!! thanks all, regards, --john--

 

[Olefogey]

John,
I thought your 1920 Commercial was a .30 cal?

Dave

 

[Ron Smith]

Don, On the contrary. I don't think anyone was trying to edge you out. You have as much right to speak your opinion as anyone else. Differences of opinion are what it's all about. Like we said before, no one knows. If we did'nt disagree, we would never get anywhere. And it would be awfully boring.

Ron

 

[donmaus]

Ron, I should have used a smiley face. My comment was meant to be funny. Absolutely no offense taken. We're not talking about religion or politics here.

 

[Ron Smith]

Don, Glad to hear that. I thought maybe you were feeling like you were being shouted down.

Ron

 

[john l lockwood]

hi guys; i didn't mean to stir up any contention, i got the humor. the subject was thoroughly flogged on a previously posted subject that was not available to me through the archives, i probably did something in error. however -- olefogy,-- i now have 3 1920 commls., the subject piece is indeed 9mm. -- i'll be picking up the trench gun from charlie tomorrow (saturday), i cannot figure out how that "sawback" bayonet fits perfectly onto the winchester shotgun!!also the bayonet is in a circa 1870 leather scabard with "pioneer bataillion" stampings on it. any input here could decide weather or not to spring for the bayonet! regards to all; --john--

 

[john l lockwood]

hi ron; thanks for the info. i'm examining the gun with a magnifying glass while i'm writing this. there are no markings on the right side of the gun. there is no " germany" stamped anywhere, and no import stamping. the s/n on the left side of the chamber reads "crown over N6786" with what looks like a lower case r. the barrel is stamped with a very faint bird ? over 6786 over a gothic crown T, over that lower case "r".the 7&8 are a slightly larger stamp than the 6's, and the 8 is double struck like the 1st strike was fudged. the mag base is stamped 8 0 . also the gun has the sear safety,and all numbers except the mag match.in fact the take down lever is stamped 86 twice. regards, --john--

 

[Ron Smith]

John, Is the ser# on the front of the frame R suffixed? It sounds like the barrel was replaced and force matched. Sure wish you could post some photos. I think you may have a 1928 Mauser(speculated) rework. Jan Still told me that although the suffix range for 1929 BKIW (Sneaks) are in the s,t,and u range. Often the last of the R suffix range is included.

Ron

 

[donmaus]

John,
You probably would have mentioned if your Luger had a grip strap mark but, just to be sure, does it?

 

[john l lockwood]

hi guys; negative on the s/n suffix, however under the s/n on the roll of the take down lever housing there is what appears to be a tiny bird in flight. damn! i just noticed!the entire front grip strap has been ground off with a very fine stone,and never reblued, i thought that was from handling! the back grip strap still retains it's orig. blueing. hope this helps. regards, --john--

 

[Edward Tinker]

john, take the grips off (be careful of course) and look on the inside. Sometimes you can see the stamping coming through.... Most of mine you can not, but what the hey...

 

[donmaus]

John,
I know some of the r-block Lugers were issued to the Schutzpolizei (Municipal Police) in the district of Stettin in Pommern Province. The ones I know of were from earlier in the block than yours. If yours was issued to them, the ground off mark would have started S.St. There may be some faint traces left, perhaps only of the periods between the abbreviations.

 

[john l lockwood]

hi guys; the numerals on the front grip strap are totally obliterated, and nothing shows inside. however , i have an acquaintence in the DOT and a close friend (ex-NYSP ret.) who know how to raise obliterated s/n's. i will probably end up taking the gun to the cops for the proceedure. the process is similar to magnaflux. regards,--john-- p.s. lots of very interesting info!

 

[donmaus]

John,
I'll be very interested to learn how your forensic investigation works out. I have a Luger I have been tempted to try this on but don't know where to go.

 

[Edward Tinker]

as Don said, we'd be interested in knowing how this works, have heard of "magnaflux", but have no idea how it works....

 

[john l lockwood]

hi guys; magnaflux (magnetic partical inspection) is a process where a ferrous object ( crankshaft, engine block etc) is submerged in a tank of water with powdered iron, and an rlectric current is passed through the tank. the iron particals outline any flaws or microscopic cracks. there is another method using an acid . the stamped numerals are denser than the surrounding metal, so the acid removes the less dense metal leaving the numerals exposed. that's how the processes were explained to me. for shure someone out there can provide more info. perhaps the fellow stationed in europe who responded to my question about uv fading on color case and straw case hardning ?? regards, --john--

 

[john l lockwood]

hi guys; magnaflux (magnetic partical inspection) is a process where a ferrous object ( crankshaft, engine block etc) is submerged in a tank of water with powdered iron, and an rlectric current is passed through the tank. the iron particals outline any flaws or microscopic cracks. there is another method using an acid . the stamped numerals are denser than the surrounding metal, so the acid removes the less dense metal leaving the numerals exposed. that's how the processes were explained to me. for shure someone out there can provide more info. perhaps the fellow stationed in europe who responded to my question about uv fading on color case and straw case hardning ?? regards, --john--