I have a 1916 luger, all matching and in good order.
I stored it and when I opened the sealed box found out it wasn't as sealed as advertised.
Some surface rust on side.
Problem is now I can not cock it, can not slide the barrel assembly bad to dis-assemble and have tried "nut buster" spray but still will not move.
Was wondering if someone had an idea/solution?
It is original and handed down from my great uncle who was in WW1. Sure would like to get it back in operation.
First thing that occurred to me......It's a 1916. It may still have the longer sear bar intact.
If it does, and the safety is on, then it won't open.
Make sure the safety is not engaged.
First thing that occurred to me......It's a 1916. It may still have the longer sear bar intact.
If it does, and the safety is on, then it won't open. Make sure the safety is not engaged.
I took the grips off and have applied penetrating oil, I will set up a can and soak it. I did make sure the safety was off.
Appreciate the recommendations and hopefully it can get it back in working order
Ok, I have oiled, soayked, cussed and talked nice but the barrel will not move. It appears there is a mechanical lock as tapping on the barrel (rubber hammer) will not budge it and it appears solidly in position, NO movement at all. I was told there maybe a spring lever on the right side inside the barrel/case that could be "junked up" and it may have to be disassembled from the top down. Not surehow to do that as all videos I found shows how easy it is BUT the barrel must move back to get the locking pin/clip out.
can you post some pictures of both sides with grips off? If it has been dewatted, we may be able to tell by looking at the area where the mainspring is centered in the frame. One last question, has it ever, to your knowledge, been functional?
you need to get a big rubber mallet and point the barrel down on a hard workbench and give the back of the frame, the grip, a few good whacks to break it loose. If it was functional in the past and has just been sitting in storage, it is just plain stuck, but you should be able to loosen it up...Bill
Ok, I soaked, well used a lot, of Kroil overnight. Took out my best rubber mallet and wacked it a few times... NO luck, not even a budge. I think I need an expert gunsmith for this one
Thanks for the recommendations!
I once dismantled a P08 that had been set on fire, had a round in the chamber cook off, then buried for 70 years.
I put a long bolt in the barrel through the muzzle end and gave the breech block a few good whacks that way. I then freed up the toggle by wedging a screwdriver between the frame and toggle knobs to slightly lift the knobs and help it break free.
The magazine must be removed to prevent the hold open from interfering.
There is SOMETHINGdirectly below your side plate that should not be there. Can you shoot a quick pic closeup of the side plate? Maybe it's the photo angle but something about your side plate is weird looking.
Of course the side plate shouldn't have any bearing on the top sliding out of battery though.
Sorry been out of service for a while and just got back on the forum.
The knobs will lift slightly only until the back part hits the case on the rear. (chopstick was used to hold back
I see nothing that would prevent the gun from getting disassembled.
If the receiver is stuck in the frame, not much should be needed to break it free.
Main suspect is still a holdopen that is stuck upwards. Coud be reached through the magazine well from the bottom. But the receiver should slide over it, even when it's stuck.
Perpaps stating the obvious, but you know the upper must be moved to the rear, right?
Try placing a lever between the frame ear and the toggle knob and see if you can get the knob to raise slightly.
Here is one I disassembled years ago. It's doable.
I had a local guy, good with guns but not real familiar with Lugers, look at it and after talking with others he knew he was not able to figure it out. Anyone know a licensed gunsmith (need license so I can legally send it) that I could safely send it to?
The pull knobs move back the barrel slightly, maybe 1/2 inch (photos put up earlier) but the back of the mechanism stops when touching the slide and no movement on the slide.
Holding the pistol like you would shoot it by the handle, put the muzzle on a solid surface, table top and PUSH. The top cannon should move back and out of battery. This position should be held and the take down lever can then be swiveled down.
"The pull knobs move back the barrel slightly, maybe 1/2 inch.."This is ALL IT TAKES! the take down lever can then be swiveled down.
The magazine button, when the mag is empty, pushes against an L-shaped lever between the frame and the toggle action.
This lever keeps the toggle open after all rounds are fired.
If the gun was stored with the magazine inserted, it is possible that the holdopen lever is stuck in it's raised position thus blocking the toggle. Normally it would lay flush in its recess at the top of the frame.
Gerben, IMO even if it was stuck in some sort of upward position it would simply be riding under the bolt as it does naturally . To be up high enough to stop the rearward bolt travel the top cannon would have to be farther forward? On my bench pistol I have tried to get the hold open to obstruct rearward movement and I don't see how it could be possible given the position of the bolt as is.
That and given that the toggle rises kills that theory.
Herr Roadking..Holding the pistol like you would shoot it by the handle, put the muzzle on a solid surface, table top and PUSH. The top cannon should move back and out of battery.
IS THERE ANY rearward movement of the barrel and bolt assembly when you perform this?
There are only 3 points that could possibly restrict this rearward movement and I cannot get any of them to stop my bench pistol.
Please report on "IS THERE ANY rearward movement of the barrel and bolt assembly when you perform this?"
Gerben, IMO even if it was stuck in some sort of upward position it would simply be riding under the bolt as it does naturally . To be up high enough to stop the rearward bolt travel the top cannon would have to be farther forward? On my bench pistol I have tried to get the hold open to obstruct rearward movement and I don't see how it could be possible given the position of the bolt as is.
That and given that the toggle rises kills that theory.
Herr Roadking..Holding the pistol like you would shoot it by the handle, put the muzzle on a solid surface, table top and PUSH. The top cannon should move back and out of battery.
IS THERE ANY rearward movement of the barrel and bolt assembly when you perform this?
There are only 3 points that could possibly restrict this rearward movement and I cannot get any of them to stop my bench pistol.
Please report on "IS THERE ANY rearward movement of the barrel and bolt assembly when you perform this?"
If there is indeed NO movement what so ever..SOMETHING has become lodged between the takedown lever and the lug...In the position you show the bolt..nothing hanging up there. In the rear, the S hook cannot hold it from coming out of battery and the only other item that can possibly cause no rearward movement is the take down lever and the lug. The rearward movement you don't have, moves the space needed to swivel the take down and release the side plate.
The lug on the underside of the Barrel/chamber must be moved back 3/8 of an inch to allow the take down to swivel. It's it a wild guess but perhaps some grease has hardened in this small chamber obstructing rearward movement.
Have you tried any heat? Heat may soften whatever might be pooled/hardened in there. Take the stocks off and place the pistol in the oven at a moderate temp for say 30 minutes. 150 might be high enough.
You MUST be able to kick the top cannon out of battery. Heat is cheap and easy and worth a try.
If there is indeed NO movement what so ever..SOMETHING has become lodged between the takedown lever and the lug...In the position you show the bolt..nothing hanging up there. In the rear, the S hook cannot hold it from coming out of battery and the only other item that can possibly cause no rearward movement is the take down lever and the lug. The rearward movement you don't have, moves the space needed to swivel the take down and release the side plate.
The lug on the underside of the Barrel/chamber must be moved back 3/8 of an inch to allow the take down to swivel. It's it a wild guess but perhaps some grease has hardened in this small chamber obstructing rearward movement.
Have you tried any heat? Heat may soften whatever might be pooled/hardened in there. Take the stocks off and place the pistol in the oven at a moderate temp for say 30 minutes. 150 might be high enough.
You MUST be able to kick the top cannon out of battery. Heat is cheap and easy and worth a try.
Taking awhile to pre heat the oven? Thinking this over a bit..heat might also help if some dried substance from years ago caused an adhesion along the rails. Heat causes metal to expand and oils to melt, could possibly loosen whatever grip has been placed on it.
I am thinking he might need more than 150 degrees.... May be 200-250?
It is not hot enough to anneal the metal, but enough to burn off any dried up stuff...
Given that the gun was not sealed properly for many years and probably exposed to high humidity, may be rust developed between the receiver and the frame...
Ok, add warming to my attempts to move the barrel slide... didn't change anything, still solidly "stuck".
Anyone work with Wright guns in AZ? They were recommended as a possible source for repair.
Thanks
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